POP CULTURE

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, soda fountains were not only as ubiquitous as saloons, they were as dangerous.  Soda jerks served sweet treats variously containing cocaine, lithium, morphine, opium, chloroform, and ether; no wonder bars found themselves competing with soda fountains for customers, who became even more powerfully addicted to soft drinks than to hard liquor.

The 1906 Pure Food & Drug Act put a stop to psychedelic soda pop, but fountains still managed to give saloons a run for their money:  if phosphates could no longer get you higher than booze, they could at least taste better.  Soda fountains were located in drug stores, and drug stores were manned by pharmacists.  Unlike bartenders, writes Darcy O’Neill in his fascinating new e-book Fix The Pumps, “pharmacists had privileged access to many compounds and the knowledge to mix them.”  They created complex, seductive flavors via “pharmaceutical extracts, chemicals and tinctures whose access was limited to the profession.”

Fix The Pumps reveals these Gilded Age trade secrets in all their arcane glory.  The author is uniquely qualified for the task:  not only is Darcy a dogged drink detective, he’s also a professional chemist.  His training enabled him to translate measuring units like drachms and minums in such publications as the 1772 manual Impregnating Water With Fixed Air, the 1890 handbook Saxe’s Hints To Soda Water Dispensers, and the 1919 grimoire Uncle Sam’s Water Wagon; 500 recipes For Delicious Drinks.

When you read the 450 recipes in Fix The Pumps, a vanished era and a lost art both come vividly to life.  First you learn how to make the obsure ingredients that went into the recipes:  Irish Moss Foam, Solution Of Gum Arabic, Elixir Of Dandelion, Kola Extract,  Checkerberry Syrup, Macaroon Essence, Rapid Transit Syrup, Chocolate Nectar, May Queen Fizzette, Don’t Care Syrup, Mountain Pink, and Spice Of Life, to name a few.

Then come the drink recipes incorporating these ingredients, sodas, punches, and egg drinks with names like Pineapple Paulette, Third Degree, Fakir Freezer, Scientific Egg Shake, and Piff Paff Puff.  Many of these are as creative as any alcoholic drink of their era — or ours.   Witness the Scorcher’s Delight (vanilla syrup, tincture of cardamom, acid phosphate, and carbonated water over shaved ice), the Nipponese (orange, ginger, pineapple, and grape syrups mixed with soda water and fresh mint leaves, served en frappé), and the Heap Of Comfort (hock syrup, malted milk, clam bouillon, a whole egg, soda and acid phosphate, topped with nutmeg).

The art of prepping, mixing, and serving such fare was in its own way as demanding as haute cocktail mixology, requiring a similar skill set, tool kit, and knowledge of customer psychology.  During Prohibition, notes Darcy, many bartenders turned to soda jerking for just this reason.

So what happened to these grandiose, gourmet quaffs and the people who served them?  Just as Prohibition set back the art of the cocktail, convenience killed the soda jerk.  Customers forsook the baroque artistry of soda fountain fare for the instant gratification of synthetic soda in bottles and cans.  “Cocktails are only now starting to recover after decades of abuse,” writes Darcy.  “The soda has shown no signs of returning to its prior glory.”

If anything can turn the tide, it’s Fix The Pumps.  Read it not just for those revelatory recipes, but for its provocative take on their cultural, economic, and medical impact on generations gone by.  You’ll never think of soda fountains as wholesome Happy Days nostalgia again.

FIX THE PUMPS

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THINGS GO BETTER WITH OKE

Okolehao fans have been waiting for the return of Hawaii’s native whiskey, distilled from the root of the ti plant, for decades now.  The Bum counts himself high among their number, along with his pal Sven Kirsten, author of Tiki Modern and fellow collector of vintage oke decanters (that’s Sven’s shelf pictured above).   We started canvassing swap meets and garage sales for them in the early 1990s, when the Kennedy-era decanters could still often be found — dusty souvenirs of forgotten Hawaiian holidays, many of them still sealed.

Not wanting to break the cool-looking tax stamps, and mindful of old newspaper reports that oke was a rotgut spirit anyway, we left these full bottles unmolested.  Until the day we uncovered some lost tropical drink recipes calling for oke, and took the plunge.  What we tasted was far from rotgut.  In fact, those decanters had been storing liquid gold, a smooth, vibrant, full-bodied pour that we ended up sipping straight.  We polished off the last of it around 10 years ago, and have been jonesing ever since.

Now Haleakala Distillers, a Maui outfit run by Jim “Bradda Kimo” Sargent, has finally answered the call.  To get around federal liquor regulations, Kimo had to craft his oke as a liqueur rather than a straight distilled spirit, but at 80 proof it still packs a Hawaiian punch, with none of the usual heavy sweetness of a liqueur.

While it bears little relation to the vintage spirit we knew and loved, Maui Okolehau Liqueur is no less delicious.  It’s a hand-made, artisanal potion with a fascinating spectrum of flavors, both herbaceous and fruity, ranging from guava and marshmallow to strawberry and, of course, ti leaf.  For more info:

MAUI OKOLEHAU LIQUEUR

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THE COCKTAIL ACHIEVERS

The Bum has one thing in common with the U.S. Congress:  neither of us can get anything done.  But the denizens of the Washington, D.C., cocktail circuit appear to have the opposite problem.  They’re addicted not to alcohol, but to accomplishment.

Exhibit A:  Eric Felten, author of the book How’s Your Drink?  Cocktails, Culture, and the Art of Drinking Well.  Currently he’s a radio host on Voice Of America.  And writing a weekly column for The Wall Street Journal.  And recording and touring with his jazz orchestra.  Oh, lest we forget:  he’s also writing another book.  Since the Bum can barely chew gum and drink at the same time, he was curious how Eric can function with so many deadlines competing for his attention.  Eric’s strategy:  “I panic early.”

Somehow he found time to lunch with the Bum at Rasika (pictured above), a downtown D.C. restaurant that also serves craft cocktails.  Between bites of Raan-E-Rasika (lamb seasoned with saffron, black cardamom, and dark rum, served with a side of tomato-ginger-raisin chutney), we sampled a drink called the Crimson Delirium.  Rasika barman Jason Strich’s sly twist on the Negroni mixes gin and Campari with blood orange and dill; it’s actually the least exotic of Jason’s concoctions, which call for such ingredients as sweet potato, fennel pollen, roasted marshmallow, and applewood smoked pear.

After lunch, the Bum joined Phil Greene (pictured below) to prep for “Happy Birthday Mr. Daiquiri,” a Museum Of The American Cocktail seminar celebrating the drink’s centennial.  Phil serves as Treasurer of the Museum.  He also has a full-time job as a patent lawyer, and another full-time job as Brand Ambassador for Domaine de Canton liqueur.  Instead of sleeping, he creates and produces monthly cocktail seminars — and these are not exactly off-the-cuff.  For the Daiquiri tribute, Phil assembled a thoroughly researched Powerpoint presentation of the drink’s history, complete with rare vintage photos of Hemingway drinking Daiquiris at Havana’s storied La Florida bar.  Phil even managed to scare up a real live admiral from Washington’s Army-Navy Club, where Lucius Johnson first imported the Daiquiri from Cuba back in 1909.

In the audience was yet was another cocktail achiever, Mark J. Plotkin.  He’s a tropical drink connoisseur who spends most of his time in the tropics, conducting ethnobotanical research in the jungles of Suriname.  That is, when he’s not campaigning to save the rain forest as President of the Amazon Conservation Team.  Or making films and writing books about how to cure disease through the centuries-old knowledge of South American tribal shamans.

Hobnobbing with Messrs. Felten, Greene, and Plotkin threw the Bum’s own entropy into question.  He even began entertaining thoughts of trying to do something with his life.  This simply would not stand.  The only solution was to drink heavily, but D.C.’s star bartenders offered no respite.

Apparently, none of them is content to run just one bar:  The Gibson’s Derek Brown has just opened a second place, The Passenger, while Jon Arroyo does double-duty as chief mixologist for Farmers & Fishers and Founding Farmers restaurants.   Todd Thrasher out-machos them both as bar chef for three Alexandria establishments, PX, Restaurant Eve, and The Majestic.

This was all too much activity for the Bum to process, so he prevailed on D.C. tikiphile Vern Stoltz to map our bar crawl.  First up was PX, which Vern had selected as the best of the three venues to sample Todd Thrasher’s cocktails.

We arrived early, before the pirate flag above PX’s unmarked door unfurled — the equivalent of the Bat-Signal for Beltway cocktailians, announcing to those in the know that the speakeasy is open.  We waited out the clock down the street at The Hour Cocktail Collections, a store selling Kennedy-era barware that all looked stolen from the set of Mad Men.  The only thing not vintage was the prices, which averaged $100 for a set of six highball glasses.  If you frequent thrift stores you’ll find the same stuff at one-tenth the price (on the other hand, we doubt that D.C.’s cocktail achievers have time to frequent thrift stores).

The flag flew, and we ascended the stairs to PX.  The room was perfect:  serene, intimate, and almost pitch black, its dark wood walls lit by antique fixtures.  Barry Lyndon would feel right at home amid the 18th-century trappings; we could easily imagine him cheating at cards with Patrick Magee in the lounge (pictured above).  Even the view out the window fit the theme:  when we leaned a little to the left on our stool, we could frame out the cars and see only the faux gaslight on the sidewalk of Alexandria’s Old Town.

Mr. Thrasher, who happened to be behind the bar that night, told the Bum:  “I go to sleep at night thinking about drinks.”  Makes sense, as his creations have a dreamlike, ethereal quality.  If they were paintings, they would be the work of De Chirico, Chagall, or Delvaux.  The drinks we sampled were transcendent, variously incorporating walnut water, apple bitters, tobacco, Madeira fig jam, and a house-made tonic water that is to tonic water what Château Lafite Rothschild is to grape juice.

One drink particularly compelled attention.  Melanie’s Pisco Pipe Dream fused pisco with coconut milk, lemon, citrus vinegar, and black pepper to create a flavor that was sui generis, with a mustardy nose that presaged a garden of savory delights.

Our next stop was Farmers & Fishers, where D.C. tropaholic Brian Lopina had reserved a private dining room for the local Tiki community.  With midcentury Exotica music piping through the room’s speakers, courtesy of dinner attendee Johnny Dollar’s iPod, we worked our way through the restaurant’s slate of Tiki drinks:  Zombies, Mai Tais, Singapore Slings, Hurricanes, and Navy Grogs (the last pictured below).  They were all spot-on, and the ideal accompaniment to ahi tuna rollups and Hawaiian marinated ribeye.  But what really made the meal were Jon Arroyo’s original signature drinks.  The Señor Arroyo zestfully combined fresh pineapple, jalapeño, thyme, and tequila, while the Mule de Fresa was a vibrant mix of fresh strawberries muddled with tequila and sugar, topped with ginger beer — and 6 drops of mezcal, for a subliminal layer of smoke.

As the only joint in D.C. serving haute Tiki drinks, we were inclined to linger at Farmers and Fishers.  But Vern would have none of it.  Off he whisked us to The Gibson, for a taste of Derek Brown’s customized pre-Prohibition classics.  Head bartender Tiffany Short warranted Vern’s sense of urgency.  She made us, quite simply, the best Daiquiri we have ever had:  a generous measure of Martinique rhum agricole, perfectly offset by the Gibson’s house ratio of Luxardo maraschino liqueur to fresh lime juice.  If there is a golden mean for cocktails, Derek has found it.

His Daiquiri — along with every other cocktail we quaffed in our nation’s capital — once again left us wondering if achievement weren’t such a bad thing after all.  It was at this moment that we knew we had to get out of D.C.  Either that, or run for Congress.

MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN COCKTAIL DAIQUIRI SEMINAR

PX LOUNGE

FARMERS & FISHERS

THE GIBSON

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PAINTING THE TOWN

In her new book, Lush Life:  Portraits From The Bar, self-described “saloon artist” Jill DeGroff has captured the personalities of the cocktail world — bartenders and barflies alike — in living watercolor.

But she doesn’t stop there.  As you would with a well-mixed drink, Ms. DeGroff balances sweet and bitter by pairing her subjects with anecdotes chosen in opposition to the tone of their portraits:  the text informs the art, and vice versa.

To take one poignant example, New York bartender Giuseppe Gonzalez’s broadly smiling caricature accompanies his stinging memory of a father who “didn’t really like me until I could have a drink with him.”  On the flipside, Maine mixologist John Myers’s rather forbidding stare counterpoints his hilarious tale of a quadriplegic customer, born “severely edited,” who hounded a pushy liquor sales rep out of Myers’s bar thusly:  “Yes, I know all about your latest stupid vodka … yes, I know it will not give me a hangover, especially since I will not drink it.”

As an added bonus, Lush Life pairs each portrait with a drink created by its subject.  Myers’s alone is worth the price of the book.  Here’s his Touchable:  Into your shaker pour 1 ounce each B&B, gold rum, and dry vermouth, followed by 1/2 ounce each fresh lime juice and pure maple syrup; shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.  Garnish with a cinnamon stick.

LUSH LIFE:  PORTRAITS FROM THE BAR

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YOUR SHIP’S COME IN

CallingAllBums copySM

If you’d like to win a copy of our upcoming book, Beachbum Berry Remixed, we hereby hip you to cocktail blogger Kaiser Penguin’s new drink contest:  create an original Tiki drink, post it on his site, and you just might end up among the three winners.

The Beachbum is not one of the judges (as a bum, he prefers to judge not lest he be judged).  But while he won’t be signing off on the winners, he will be signing copies of the winners’ books.

Click here to get started:

KAISER PENGUIN DRINK CONTEST

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